Bangkok Mornings

By 5:30 AM I'm out the door and start my 30 minute walk to the park where I attend an intense strength training, fat burning work out appropriately called Bootcamp. My friends and coworkers think i'm crazy for getting up so early but they don't know what their missing out on. The exercise class is pretty fantastic and quite challenging but that's not what I'm referring to. What they are missing out on is the experience of the Bangkok pre sunrise morning. On my way to the park I pass by the same street sweepers. I see the food vendors setting up and preparing for the rush of the morning meal. Many of the foods I have no idea what they are but they are nicely packaged in banana leaf being warmed and/or cooked on the grill. What I do recognize are the fried meats, the soups and a variety of drinks from coffee and tea to the sweet ladies juicing the oranges for fresh OJ. There are also the nicely sculpted ice delivery men out dropping off bags of crushed ice to the various vendors to keep their products fresh. The same security officers are hanging around their territories and I'm pretty sure the same rats are scurrying across the sidewalks each morning while the same homeless people are sleeping on the same steps. I see prostitutes on their way home, white men with an asian woman on each side still drinking, laughing and enjoying themselves and there are food vendors who are now cleaning up, packing and headed home. It's normally the same people each morning but occasionally there is a random man at the bus stop who greets me as I walk by...my personal favorite being the man who asked me if he could come with me.

Once I get to the park I join in with a group that ranges from 5 to 20 depending on the day as we run, jump, squat and engage in a large variety of annoying, difficult and effective activities that challenge this less than prime body. There is a lake at the park and so while I'm doing the exercises I like to look across the lake and see the sun rise between the skyscrapers as the sky begins to dress itself in a pink tone before she changes her mind and the color disappears. I like to watch the fish jump and nibble at the surface looking for breakfast and often the turtles are also near the surface taking a look around.

This morning as we are doing whatever that crazy exercise is called where you are in plank position and then you bring your foot up to your hand...anyway, while we are doing those along the edge of the lake a good sized turtle pokes his head out of the water to get a good look at us. He swam by just watching us which was somehow refreshing. Later, as we are doing 2 minute runs I nearly tripped over a lizard as long as I am tall! I stopped to watch him crawl over a wall and splash head first into the water beneath nearly flipping tail over head.

After my hour of torture which ends with a cold, wet, scented towel to help cool down (and wash all the dirt off from rolling around in the grass...and probably to help those who have to be within smelling distance from us be less offended) the sun is fully exposed and it's time to head back to the house. Again, I embark on my 30 minute walk home. This time, there are more vendors on the sidewalks, many surrounded by people on their way to work grabbing breakfast along the way. The sidewalks are more crowded with professionals and students and motorcycle taxis carrying both. There is a line of 20+ uniformed students waiting for motorcycle taxis to transport them to their destination. It's against the law for these motorbikes to drive on the wide sidewalks but with the streets so congested with larger vehicles the sidewalk is too tempting for them to pass up...so, pedestrians beware!

And then comes one of my favorite parts of the walk. I pass by a small park that has a "dancing" fountain. The fountain is spraying water in a lovely rhythm and the turtles in the small pond are often sunbathing on the stones at the edge of the water, often piled on top of each other. One day I saw 7 turtles piled onto one rock. I love walking by the dancing fountain and seeing the turtles hanging out. It fills me with gratitude for the variety of beauties in the world.

Indeed, 5 AM is pretty early for most people, but the beauty of the morning's activities and sights really makes it worth it!...not to mention that bootcamp makes me stronger!...not thinner, mind you...but stronger.

AK-47

Tunnels and Guns

Last week I returned to Vietnam but this time I was headed to Ho Chi Minh City. Knowing there are often scandals at the airport by taxi drivers I opted to have the hotel driver pick me up. I found my name held by the driver, waited for another couple to show up and we made our way into the city. Arriving at the hotel I then made my way up the 6 flights of stairs to my room where I dropped off my bag, grabbed by tour book and started exploring the neighborhood. I loved the french colonial influence reflected in the architecture mixed with the the Asian flavor of the residents. It made such a beautiful combination. Markets, vendors, shops, parks, french pastries...I explored it all!

The next day I decided to make my way to a large market whose ... is "if we don't have it, you don't need it"! So, armed with my map and my handy compass, off I went. As I walked into the market I was immediately overtaken by women wanting to sell me cothes. They grabbed me by the arm and I had to pry their finger off of me to be able to move on. That experience made me have second thoughts about shopping adventure but quickly I was able to slip down another isle, away from the overzealous sales women. The market was full of clothing, housewares, food, souvenirs and such but I was on a particular mission. Before leaving for Vietnam a coworker and dear friend called and asked me to pick up Weasel coffee. Let me explain what that means. There is actually a coffee bean that when harvested is given to weasels who choose and eat only the best beans. The bean passes through their digestive system and are passed all the way through to the other side. Yes, they are pooped out! Then they are washed and packaged and then people actually buy it and brew it and drink it! DISGUSTING!!! Apparently it makes a darn good cup of coffee but as I'm not a coffee drinker, I'll never know...and i'm ok with that! So, that was my mission, to find the weasel coffee. After accomplishing the missing I enjoyed wandering through the rest of the market and then enjoyed a most delicious sandwich before leaving.

One of the activities I wanted to enjoy was a cyclo ride around the city to see some of the important sights. This means the rider sits in a seat in the front of bicycle and the cyclist sits higher than is usual on a bicycle and peddles you around for as many hours as you hire them for. It's a great way to see the city but agreeing on a price is painful. I found a cyclo driver outside the market and we were finally able to agree on a price. I made it as clear as i could that the price I was offering was for 2 hours and NOT per hour. The driver spoke very little English but there was a boy interpreting for us. The driver apprehensively accepted my price and then biked me through a small portion of the city stopping for me to see some of the sights. We stopped at a Chinese pagoda, passed by the War Museum, went on to the Reunification Palace and then he declared that my time was finished. I knew that we were only a few minutes ride from our starting point and insisted that he take me back to my hotel as our time was not yet complete. He did and we pulled on to the street of the hotel just a few minutes later. I opened my wallet and pulled out the money that was agreed on and the driver began his "show". He insisted that I pay him more demonstrating that he needed food to eat. I knew that the price was not only fair but generous. The driver stomped off without accepting my money. I knew this was all part of the show and so after offering my money several times I turned and walked away. Just as I expected he came running after me and finally accepted my money and threw out a few curse words to put the icing on the cake. It was really too bad that he ended it this way but I knew that cyclo drivers are known to pull such kinds of stunts. Unfortunately, it also meant that I didn't get a photo taken...sad.

After the ride I decided to console myself with a yummy french pastry. I took it to the park to enjoy and was soon joined by a stranger who asked if he could sit on the bench with me. My red flags went off but I couldn't keep him from sitting there. I focused on my pastry and ignored him. He tried to make conversation. Any time someone asks you if this is your first time to their country it usually means they are taking your temperature and planning a scam. I told him it wasn't (truth). Then he asked if I was alone and I told him I have friends in the city (truth). In fact, it reminded me that I needed to check my phone for an SMS from a long lost friend who was now living in the area and who I hoped to meet up with after meeting him 10 years ago. I pulled out my phone and ignored the stranger who finally left me alone and walked off. Success! That night I met up with my long lost friend, met his sweet wife and his adorable little boy. It was a great evening and I was grateful to have friends.

The next day after work I headed out to the Cu Chi Tunnels. These are tunnels the Vietnamese used to fight against both the French and the Americans. After going through a tour and learning a lot we were given a chance to actually crawl into the tunnels. I was surprised at how small they there! The tunnels were just barely broader than I was and not nearly as tall as me. I had to crouch down into nearly a duck walk to get through. I had a great admiration for the strategy and use of the tunnels. It was not for claustrophobics!

After the tunnels I went back to the area of the tour where you could shoot a variety of guns. I've never shot a gun before and thought I'd take the opportunity. I choose a classic, the AK-47. I purchased 10 bullets and was walked out to the shooting range, given ear protection, the gun was loaded, they showed me how to hold it and I tried desperately to hit the target...unsuccessfully. I was amazed at the heat that came off the gun as well as the blasts of air. It was a strange experience. I'm glad I did it.

The rest of the trip was fairly uneventful with the exception of terrific shopping at cute boutiques and a delicious tapas style meal. It was a great trip! My decision remains...I love Vietnam!