Sunday, January 15, 2012

Chiang Rai for the New Year- Day 2

After the festivities of the evening 9 AM sounded way to early the next morning to begin our next adventure. Since it was our agreed upon time we had no choice. The potential of the day motivated me. Today we would head to the boarder with Burma (Myanmar) and then to go to the area known as the Golden Triangle.

We began after winding our way through hairpin turns up, up, up the mountain, at the Mae Fah Luang, the Princess Mother's home in Doi Tung. The current King's mother spent a good deal of time in northern Thailand and was very concerned about the health and livelihood of the hill tribe inhabitants, especially the amount of efforts being spent on the drug trade. Initially she began by traveling to the area with doctors to care for the sick. Ultimately, she decided to fight against the drug trade by encouraging alternative sustainable options. Opium became replaced with coffee beans and other plants. It was inspiring to learn about her endless efforts in her older years and dedication to helping people improve themselves. A truly selfless woman. It's no wonder her son, the King of Thailand, is so good and beloved by the people.

We also visited the garden the Princess Mother had planted. Since her home is situated in the hills of the area she recognized that it could support the growth of plants from cooler climates. With a passion for travel she decided to produce the flower garden giving those who were unable to travel the opportunity to experience a wide variety of flora. It was a place I could have spent all day. Definitely a place of beauty. I felt grateful to begin the new year inspired by the good works of others. I felt the desire to increase my efforts to make a difference in the lives of others around me, looking for ways to make the world a better place.

After too short of a rushed visit to the popular and packed highland getaway we continued to our next destination the boarder town of Mae Sai, the northern most city of Thailand which boarders the city of Tachileik, Burma. There was a lot of activity at the boarder. People were crossing in such a variety of modes of transportation. By foot, by rickshaw, by bike, by tuk tuk, car, mini bus and on and on. The variety of what they transported with then was equal to the modes of transport. I would have been perfectly happy to sit at the crossing and watch the activity the rest of the day. But there was exploring to be done!

We started by walking the crowded streets packed with vendors and shoppers. Vendors sold food, clothing, electronics, jewelry ranging from costume to precious stones. Just getting down the street on the sidewalk was a challenge. I picked a side street and turned up it. More shops selling herbs, healing concoctions, hill tribe fabrics, souvenirs and more. As we walked further up the hill we arrived at the foot of a long set of stairs leading to the top of hill, home to a Buddhist temple. We took on the challenge of climbing the stairs along with several others already making the climb. The stairs were uneven and seemed endless but we finally reached the top and found a great view of Tachileik. I have to admit that I've now seen enough temples that they rarely hold my attention. This was the case at this particular temple. The view, for me, was the most exciting discovery.

We descended the stairs, swearing that would be our last climb of the day and made our way back to the busy streets of city. I would have enjoyed spending a few hours wandering through the markets and doing some shopping but it was time to move on. I made a mental note to return someday and spend the day in this point of crossroads as we made our way, slowly, through the traffic and out of town.

I appreciated the drives between locations allowing us to see the countryside. I have a real passion for driving through farmlands. I love the view of farmers and animals working in their fields, planting, grooming, harvesting. Food, a basic necessity of life, yet there is such variety in where and how it is produced. A common thread is that it requires hard work.

Driving up another mountain we passed a caravan of trucks carrying people- young, old and monks- colorful decorations and instruments. I wondered if it was a wedding procession but there wasn't a couple I could identify as celebrating a union. It wasn't until we got to the front of the 10+ car procession, passing a few cars at a time up the narrow 2 lane road, that it became clear. The lead vehicle carried a large Buddha image. It was making its way to a temple. A family or community was beginning the year by making merit and ensuring good karma.

We continued up the mountain and finally reached a town. Again we met a crowd of people, the consequences of choosing a popular destination for the New Year weekend. Luckily, we were among the less than 10 people in the Opium Museum. Inside we learned about the role opium played in the lives of those living in the area, the folklore around its beginnings, the process of growing and delicate harvesting techniques. Displayed were the numerous tools used in each of the stages up to its use. All very interesting.

After learning the history through current day we then went to the Mekong river's edge where we could see both Burma and Laos, each on either side of the river dividing the three countries. This area, know as a key location in the transport of the drug is referred to as the Golden Triangle. While we didn't witness any trafficking of drugs there were shops lined up and down the street selling all sorts of souvenirs. I opted not to purchase any drug paraphernalia.

Before heading back to Chiang Rai we made one last stop on the edge of the town of Sop Ruak which had vinyl lanterns strewn back and forth across the streets. There was a ruined temple. The sun would soon begin to set and we were tired from a long day so we just spent a few minutes walking in and around the ruined bricks. What was once surely a beautiful ornate temple had lost its outer beauty but with its insides fully exposed, somehow the beauty remained in the mystery of what once was.

Day 1 of the New Year came to an end over a bowl of noodles.

Thursday, January 5, 2012

Chiang Rai for the New Year- Day 1

The New Year holiday fell on a weekend this year giving me a 3 day weekend. As with all 3 day weekends I began to wonder which part of Thailand I should explore. Chiang Mai is a favorite for ringing in the new year but I was too late for that as all the flights were sold out. So, I decided on a city just north of Chiang Mai...Chiang Rai. I had heard that it was a beautiful place with a cool climate in the winter and it's located just an hour from the Burma, Lao boarder. I booked a ticket, found a hotel and began planning out the trip.

Since I couldn't take time off work I departed on Saturday morning and arrived to the hotel around 11:30. I met up with a friend who had arrived a day earlier and learned that she had arranged for a driver to take us on a tour of a few sites south of the city. Off we went to explore.

The first stop was at a Karen Long Neck Village. This is a hill tribe group that still practices neck elongation by placing rings around a woman's neck. It is thought that this custom began years ago after several attacks by tigers. It was decided that if the women placed these rings around their necks it would protect them from the murderous teeth of the tigers. I had mixed feelings about visiting this village knowing that such experiences are often turned into something more like a human zoo than an educational experience. My fears were accurate as we walked through the village which was basically just a shopping trip. The walking paths were lined with displays of various mass produced handicrafts, very few of which were made by the Karen. At one point we were sat in a thatch covered area to see some traditional dancing. A group of about 5 men and 5 woman unenthusiastically walked and shuffled a rhythmic circle while a few played instruments. The music played drum, gong and cymbals seemed a completely different song than what was played simultaneously by the bamboo flutes. Each on their own would have been interesting to hear but the combination was not music to my ears. The complete lack of emotion by the dancers left me chuckling as I again reflected on the zoo type feeling of the visit.

Despite my discomfort I did manage to take a few photos and find some handicrafts to purchase which I watched the artisans craft. There were several women hard at work on their looms weaving scarves. Typically this would be up my ally but I find I have very few opportunities to wear scarves in this climate and I'm pretty sure my friends and family are looking forward to the day they get something other than a scarf from me. :-) One of the handicrafts I purchased was a mug made from green bamboo. Very unique.

Next on the agenda was my main
purpose for wanting to visit Chiang Rai. I'd seen pictures of a new Buddhist temple which began construction about 12 years ago. It is completely white and has the feeling of an ice castle to me. I was excited to actually get to see it with my own eyes. My experience matched my expectation. The sight was fantastic. The temple, so ornately constructed was happiness to my eyes despite the swarms of people in and around the temple grounds. I was surprised to see that the inside of the temple was not yet finished. The construction was complete but the painting of the walls was still in progress. No photos were allowed inside but I snuck a picture of the painters pallet. The paintings on one wall were humorous, depicting images of super heros such as Spiderman, Superman, Harry Potter and others on the lower part of the wall and above it were paintings of heaven. I'm not completely sure what the painter was going for but I was left with the impression that the message was to rise above the world and things that aren't real, a message I can relate to.

The last stop required an 1800 meter hike up a mountainside to a lovely waterfall. It was a terrific ending to the outing. We headed back to the hotel to prepare for the evening festivities celebrating and end and a beginning.

The plan for the evening was to walk up the street a block to the city center which had been blocked off to traffic for the celebration. Food vendors were lined up both sides of the street which was already packed with families and friends visiting and enjoying the various stages of performers. My pick was the center stage which featured traditional dance of both the Thais and the hill tribes. Before setting off the fireworks a story was told that I didn't understand a bit of. But it involved a dragon in Chinese style, dancing around the stage. It was a beautiful performance and ended with fireworks being spewed out of the dragon's mouth.

We headed back to the hotel, drained from the days adventures and listened to the fireworks from our room. Welcome 2012! Please be as good to me as 2011.