Laos

A friend of mine joined me for the Thanksgiving holiday. We decided that while we only had about 4 days we would take a trip to Laos. We determined to make every hour count for 2! We left Bangkok Wednesday at 8 pm and traveled by train to the boarder of Thailand and Laos. After the 13 hour train ride we arrived and made our way across the boarder and into Vientiane, Lao's capitol city. Here we saw several temples, some museums, enjoyed wandering the city and enjoyed a nice long massage. We spent about about 36 hours in Vientiane and then we were off to Vang Vieng known for the variety of outdoor activities from biking, to rafting to climbing. The drive to Vang Vieng we took in an old rickety bus packed with people and a variety of goods being transported to various locations along the way. The drive was spectacular as we headed up into the mountains, passed bamboo homes on stilts and witnessed daily life. The country is so lush with vegetation. The road was shared by vehicles, motor bikes, villagers walking to their destinations and livestock. As we passed villages children were often playing along side the street as homes are built by the road side. As evening set in villagers scrubbed down their children and themselves. The color of red chilies drying out under the sun was a nice contrast against the brown bamboo homes with thatched roofs.

We rose early in the morning to enjoy the sunrise. While I was exhausted it was worth it! The light against the tall mountains and the reflection off the water in the Nam Ngum river was spectacular! As we walked we crossed several swinging bridges from one side of the river to the other. It got a little snug when we had to share the narrow bridge with a motorbike loaded with who-knows-what on all sides. I was unsure the bridge would bear the weight but was gladly mistaken! Along the path we happened upon a small group of monks receiving food gifts from the villagers. Buddhists believe that one way to gain merit is to make such offerings to monks. After receiving their gifts the monks sung a little chant and went on their way wandering through town. There is something about the orange gowns that is very moving. Perhaps it reminds me of my own missionary experience in Spain so many years ago.

Unfortunately we didn't have time to enjoy any of the outdoor activities Vang Vieng had to offer. After our morning speed walk we jumped on a mini bus and enjoyed another beautiful drive to Luang Prabang. Our front row seats were GREAT as we winded our way up the mountain side. Hairpin turns for hours made for an exciting drive. Villagers carried firewood on the shared roads. Clothes were scrubbed down on the road, more bare bottomed children playing gleefully. Older children caring for younger ones. I contemplated how I would do living in such a different world than my own. What did girlfriends do together when there are no malls to shop in? no internet to facebook or blog. It seemed that friendships were made and cemented in working hard side by side attending to the most important tasks...running a family. Farming, collecting fire wood, building fences, washing clothes, cooking...all done together as family and friends. From my own upbringing I know that working together brings families closer together. It deepens friendships. Sharing burdens builds bonds.

We arrived in Luang Prabang in the late afternoon. We found a place to stay and started exploring. We climbed the sacred hill, enjoyed the view of terraced fields along the Mekong River, enjoyed several temples and were mesmerized by the chanting of monks in the temple. There is something so beautiful about people coming together to worship a higher power and express their loyalty and gratitude. I made sure to express my own gratitude to a loving God for the many blessings in my life that night.

We tore ourselves away from the monks and ran to the Royal Theater to enjoy a night of traditional music and dance. The monkey did an excellent job of playing his role as he saved the princess from committing suicide. And the young girl dancing amid all of the much older dancers stole the show with her flawless performance. A nice evening would not be complete without a spectacular dinner! We headed to 3 Nagas for a dining delight! Black, wild, Lao sticky rice, buffalo curry and fish cooked in banana leaves were what we selected from the mouth watering menu. Ah, and creme brulee to polish it all off. Such a wonderful treat! But as all things must come to an end...we had to hurry off and get some shopping done before the night market closed. We only had 30 minutes...or so we thought. As we approached most of the booths had already started breaking down. Normally shopping at markets is a long drawn out process as you go back and forth throwing out prices and making counter offers. I've learned that showing up as people are packing up is a great time to shop! This is when the best bargains are to be found. Let's just say I got a few Christmas gifts! Sorry...i'm not revealing any secrets. You'll have to wait to see what Santa brings you. :-)

Oh! how could I have forgotten to mention the most important detail! While running back and forth from place to place Edgar and I decided that we would spend our last day on an elephant excursion! We booked our adventure for the next day. Riding an elephant has long been on my list of "things to live for". I just didn't realize I'd get the chance so soon after being here!!

Oh, but before we get there...so much more to tell you! :-) We woke early again hoping to enjoy the sunrise and get some good photos. We also wanted to see the procession of monks through the city collecting offerings. We walked outside our hotel door (I think we woke the attendant up to have him let us out of the hotel...oops) and down the street a little ways. We found what we were looking for. It was a sight to behold! A long line of orange robed monks. Their ages ranged from young to old. As we followed them towards the city center the streets became crowded with locals and tourists lined up to make their offerings. The monks bowls were overflowing with rice, bananas and other gifts. My favorite was watching a few monks lined up to make their offerings to other monks. It really was very beautiful.

After that our wanderings continued through the city and we found the fruit and vegetable market. We wandered through, purchased mangosteen and mandarin oranges but declined the insects and river weed. Then it was off to breakfast. We found a great restaurant overlooking the river. An amazing view made breakfast so delicious! We gobbled it down, ran to the hotel, packed, checked out, dropped our luggage and ran to the meeting place for our ELEPHANT ADVENTURE!

The excitement inside me was hardly containable! We drove several kilometers outside the city where the elephants are kept. These are retired logging elephants who can't be returned to the wild as they no longer know how to live in the wild and would not survive. So, they "earn their keep" giving tourists like me an opportunity to live their life long dreams! If you know me pretty well you are aware that I own a chair that sits atop an elephant. Well, I finally got to sit in one of those chairs ON an elephant!!! And then I got off the chair and sat on the neck of my sweet elephant and off we went! She was hungry so she kept getting side tracked which I didn't mind cuz I could totally relate! ;-) It was fun to feel her shoulder blades underneath me, shifting her weight as we went along. Our elephant guide enriched the experience by singing all along and teaching us how to guide the elephant with Laotian phrases (forward, right, left). I savored every moment, the touch of her course hairs and thick dry skin. The feel of her ears flapping and hitting my legs and feet...It was beautiful! We walked down a very steep hill and I felt like I was going to fall out of my seat! Luckily Edgar did a great job of keeping her on track and our sweet elephant maintained her balance. Then we waded through the river and then back up a hill and home. All along I couldn't think of any elephant songs to sing! Sad.

After the amazing elephant ride we took a boat up the river to some beautiful waterfalls. I wasn't prepared for a swim but I soaked my feet in the water after a small hike. We got back into the boat and headed back. The river was dotted with different people fishing, gathering river weed, snails and who knows what else, presumably to be sold at the market the next day. It was fun to watch them.

We got back to town at 2:00 and our flight left at 3:40. We had just enough time to make a run to the Royal Palace Museum. We toured the museum in a record 10 minutes. I don't recommend doing the tour that fast but I highly recommend the museum. There just wasn't enough time to see it all slowly but we had to pack it in!

Off we rushed to the airport...fell fast asleep on the plane and returned to the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. WOW! There you have it! My long winded summary of a short but spectacular trip! It's bed time so I'll post photos tomorrow. And in case you had any doubt...I LOVE living out here! it is a dream come true. Thanks to all of you for your support as I've made this transition! I love you all!!!

I've attached some photos taken by Edgar and some video of our ride on an elephant and the monks chanting...enjoy!

Learning Thai

The other day I needed to find a store called Carrefour. It's basically like Super Wal-Mart (or whatever you call the Wal-Mart with a food section). It was too far for walking so my friend told me to take a taxi. He explained that I should tell the driver to take me to "Callafo" since they wouldn't understand if I pronounced the store "careafor". So, I flagged a cab and told the driver I wanted to go to "Callafo". He didn't understand, so I said it again, a little differently knowing that asians sometimes confuse l's and r's. "Carrafo", I said. Still nothing..."careafor?" nope not that either. Back to "callafo". He looked at me and said "caw-fo?" ummm...Yes? maybe? So I told him in Thai the street it was on and he laughed and took off driving. I wasn't sure I was going to end up in the right place but he kept laughing and repeating my pronunciation of "callafo". He then taught me that the correct pronunciation of "carrefour" is "caw-fo" and continued repeating my pathetic version of the store name and laughing! It made me laugh. But I still didn't know if he knew where I was hoping to end up.

It wasn't until we pulled in front of the store that it was confirmed to me that he did indeed understand where I wanted to go...phew! I entered the store and began my shopping. As I was wandering around I listened and laughed to myself as the advertisement playing over the loud speaker repeated over and over again "caw-fo". Who knew that "carrefour" should be pronounced "caw-fo"? That's one thai word i'll NEVER forget! :-)

Bangkok Life

I thought I'd try to summarize my first impressions and experiences in Bangkok as a new resident. They say that the population of Bangkok, with outlying areas totals around 10 million people. The largest city I've lived in is Salt Lake City with a population of about 1 million if you count the whole valley! While I knew that Bangkok was big I really couldn't imagine how bit that was. I've been to big cities before but to live in one is another story. But I like a new adventure so off I went to the Big Mango!

After a very long flight I arrived at the airport, found my luggage and made my way to the taxi stand. This was supposed to be where I could find a "fair" taxi who would use the meter and not overcharge me. I had so much luggage I was swimming in it! My taxi driver spoke no English. He took me to my hotel which was about a 30 minute drive and then came the price. He charged me 600 Baht or about $18. I was pretty sure I was being overcharged but what could I do? I paid the money and entered the hotel. I was given a key card for my room on the 28th floor. The view from my hotel room reveals a numerous sky scrapers, lots of construction and a view of the sky train. A thin layer of heat and humidity blankets the city.

Thailand is a Buddhist country. They believe the spirits of their ancestors live and that it's important to keep them cared for. For this reason there are shrines and spirit houses everywhere...outside homes, construction sites, on corners. One day as I was walking down the street I noticed a crowd of people and some music. I looked to see a large shrine and people kneeling around it making various offerings. Some offered flowers, others food and others let loose birds in cages. Off to the side there was traditional music and dancing to add to the spiritual atmosphere. I sat and watched as people came, made their offerings, prayed and went on their way. At one point a mother came in with her son. She showed him how to make his offering and pray. It was quite beautiful to watch a mother pass her tradition on to her son.

Walking through the city fills your nostrils with a variety of smells. Some of them pleasant...others more on the unpleasant side. There are street vendors crammed side by side along sidewalks selling foods of various types. Many of them are barbecued meats and fried fish which I haven't been brave enough to try. Some of them are fruit vendors who will cut up watermelon, mangos, pineapple and numerous fruits i don't know in English (or in Thai!) and put them in a plastic bag with a wooden skewer for your eating pleasure. mmmmmm.... my mouth is watering just thinking about it! Lyn, I think of you every time I eat the pineapple (Cheri, i think of you every time I see a rat run across the sidewalk!! eeewwww!!). And there are the vendors with the deserts...again, most of them I haven't tried but the barbecued bananas drowned in condensed milk....mmm.mmmm.mmmm! And the ice cream with sticky rice swimming in coconut milk? Yes, i've tried that too. Most of smells along your walk through the city come from the various meats and fish being fried or barbecued right there on the street. It's a smell i haven't yet fallen in love with.

Speaking of food...it's everywhere! And it can be pretty cheap. Most malls have a food court where a meal can cost as little as $1. Of course there are also plenty of opportunities to get international foods at a higher price. I went to a crepes restaurant last weekend that cost me about $7. So, if yer ok with rice and curry (which I am so ok with) there's really no need to cook. :-) no complaints here!

To live in Bangkok I think one is required to be a compulsive shopper. There are massive malls everywhere and shopping all along the streets as well. There are day markets, night markets, weekend markets! One of the highlights for me is the large weekend market. Stall after stall filled with everything and anything you can think of! Housewares, clothing, souvenirs, furniture, you name it! The secret is to go early before the crowds hit or late when the sun won't kill you.

Then there's the traffic. Pretty much yer better off not driving. I can usually take the sky train or the metro within walking distance of where I want to go. There are rare occasions when i'm hauling things that are too awkward or heavy to carry and a taxi is necessary. Just be ready for the trip to take at lease twice as long. Today I took a taxi and it took me an hour for a trip that usually takes me 30 minutes. Luckily the cab ride only cost $5.

Ok, we'll leave it at that for now. Hopefully i'll be able to write about my new apartment next! Keep your fingers crossed!

Mae Hong Son

I've spent the week in Mae Hong Son in northwestern Thailand. I got to practice my prescreening skills meaning that I interviewed refugee families to verify that we have their correct information and then talked to them about why they fled Burma and why they can't return. It was an interesting process. The process is mostly administrative. Most of the people we met with have been outside their country of origin so long that their children, now adults, were born in the refugee camp and often the children didn't know the stories of why their parents fled in the first place. They know that their people are oppressed and that if they go back they will be mistreated but when asked why their parents fled they aren't always able to provide the details. This is not what i expected. I did meet with one family who said they have a distant relative in Salt Lake and they wanted to join them. You can imagine my joy!

Today I got to go to the Ban Mai Nai Soi refugee camp (the processing in this area takes place outside the camp so this was my first visit to the camp). It was similar in many ways to the Tham Hin camp that I visited on an exchange I participated in through the government several years ago. Here is a link the report I gave to the State Department about my trip in 2006. http://www.cal.org/co/coexchange/McConkieReport.pdf In the camp we did some follow ups. We met with a few families to clarify information or gather further information to process their case. For example, we needed contact information for a spouse that was incorrect, we needed to verify which state one case preferred to resettle in since he said he had a friend in Colorado but he also had family members going to Georgia. It was interesting to meet with families and follow up on their cases. When we had delivered all the bad news and gotten all the updates we needed we went to listen in on a cultural orientation that was being held for refugees who have been approved to go to the US. It was fun to see them learn about education and American culture as well as practice writing their names and saying basic phrases. Several of the photos I am uploading are of the orientation.

Each night after work I went out with one of the caseworkers and did various activities. One day we hiked to the top of a nearby mountain. We rented bikes for the several days we were here and went on bike rides around the town of under 8000 people. We tried new (to me) restaurants and new foods. She introduced me to the most delicious foods and treats. So yummy! The big Loi Kratong festival was celebrated our first night here. You will see photos of people letting go of lanterns. The lanterns are like hot air balloons. You light a fire under them and they heat up and the heat carries it into the sky along with all the regrets of the year. It was beautiful to see the lanterns fill the sky.

Tonight, the whole crew of us (there have been 6 of us here) had dinner together. We fed all of us at a nice restaurant for $30! I just can't get over how inexpensive and delicious the food is! After dinner I went for a nice long massage. 90 minutes of bliss for a cost of only $7. Not bad eh? She was able to work out part of the kink in my neck from this super hard pillow I've been sleeping on. I learned that in Thai when you get a kink in your neck they say that "the pillow bit you". That's exactly what it did!

All in all the trip was educational, both professionally as well as socially and culturally. It was another fabulous Thai adventure! I never did get to see the big temple on the hill...guess I'll have to come back!